Spaghetti Squash Seafood Medley with Sumac Berries

by Aina R Ferris, The Native Explorer co-founder

Seafood lovers will enjoy this savory, creamy entrée accented by the lemony fragrance and zesty flavor of dry, ground sumac berries. I typically eyeball the amount of ingredients used in my recipes, but will provide you ballpark figures. Before we dive into the dish, let's get you acquainted with edible sumac.

Sprinkle ground sumac berries for a lemony zest to seafood dishes

The Missouri Department of Conservation lists three kinds of edible sumac species native to the state:

Fragrant/Aromatic Sumac berries

Fragrant/Aromatic sumac (Rhus aromatica) looks a lot like poison ivy in that it has "leaves of three". According to the MDC, poison ivy's middle leaflet will clearly show a leaf stalk. Fragrant sumac's middle leaflet usually won't have one. Moreover, Fragrant sumac produces hairy, reddish fruits, while poison ivy bears waxy, whitish fruits that are virtually hairless.

Winged/Dwarf/Shining Sumac

Winged/Dwarf/Shining sumac (Rhus copallinum) is a thicket-forming shrub or small tree with a rounded top. The plant has flattened leafy structures running along the central stems of the compound leaves. The upper surface of the leaflets is shiny, while the lower surface has a felt-like texture.

Smooth Sumac fruits

Smooth sumac (Rhus glabra) is also a thicket-forming shrub or small tree. Yet unlike Winged sumac, the plant tends to spread outward, like a crown. Its fruits sport dense, short hairs.

Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), native to the Northeastern US, may be found as an introduced species in Greene County, MO. The hairiness of the tree stem and fruits are reminiscent of velvety deer antlers.

The native or wild sumac, is safe to touch and consume, and produces red or reddish fruits. "Poison Sumac" fruits are white to yellowish in color.

According to the MDC, the plant which has been given the monicker "Poison Sumac" (Toxicodendron vernix) and assumed to be native to Missouri, actually "occurs in swamps and bogs in states beyond our borders, to the east and north."*

Now, for tonight's dinner...

Ingredients

1 spaghetti squash (sliced lengthwise, cored, placed on a baking sheet skin side up and baked at 400° for 25 minutes; once cooled, scoop out the stringy flesh and set aside)

1 lb assorted seafood (shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels; you may opt to use just one seafood ingredient)

1 c chopped broccoli florets

⅓ c sour cream

1½ c unsalted chicken or vegetable stock

¼ c white wine

2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp olive oil

¼ c minced yellow onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp ground dry sumac

Old Bay seasoning, salt, pepper (add according to taste)

Optional: Potato gnocchi cooked according to package instructions

Directions

Season seafood with about a teaspoon of salt and set aside. In a medium-sized pan, melt butter then add the olive oil. Add onion and garlic. Sautée until onion turns translucent and garlic is golden brown. Add spaghetti squash shreds and broccoli. Season with Old Bay, salt and pepper to taste and stir until vegetables are coated with the butter-oil mixture and broccoli turns a vibrant green color. Stir in stock and let simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in sour cream and white wine thereby creating the "spaghetti" sauce. At this point, you may add a bit more of the above ingredients according to your taste. Carefully stir in your seasoned seafood and gnocchi until coated with the sauce. Simmer just until seafood turns slightly opaque-- otherwise, overcooked seafood will be rubbery to the bite. Stir in ground sumac before serving. Additionally, sumac may be sprinkled over each plated dish. Makes 3 - 4 servings. Pair with a dry yet delicate Pinot Grigio. Its bouquet tempers the briny seafood flavor.

Sumac can be used in spice rubs, marinades and dressings. It's also served as a condiment in numerous Middle Eastern cuisine. Sprinkle it over salad for a tangy, citrusy zing.

Sumac berries, dried and ground

My family didn't use to be a fan of spaghetti squash (it tasted "meh" on its own) until I discovered that a creamy sauce makes it taste indubitably wonderful. If you prefer a dairy-free sauce, you could omit the sour cream and instead create a dairy-free roux, which is a mixture of equal parts flour and fat (olive oil or even bacon grease!) Slowly incorporate cooking stock and whisk until you create a lump-free sauce. (I personally like the flavor of sour cream mingling with the sautéed yellow onion.)

While sumac plays a supporting role in this recipe, adding it to the dish takes the flavor to a fancier level (wow your fellow native plant lovers with this unique ingredient!) Sumac is an essential spice in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine.†

(Author's note: I encourage you to grow edible native plants at your property so you may literally enjoy the fruits of your labor. If you have food sensitivity, inquire with your doctor and read up on potential risks of ingesting new food items. Always carefully wash produce before consumption.)

References: *https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/sumacs †https://www.taste.com.au/quick-easy/articles/sumac/2eha8mcm