Fancy a cup of Shade Coffee?
- Admin - Aina Ferris
- Feb 23, 2020
- 4 min read
Updated: Jan 12, 2022
Legend has it that an Ethiopian goat herder named, Kaldi stumbled upon the first coffee tree when he observed his charges nibbling berries off a tall, unfamiliar shrub. He further noted the extra pep in their step after enjoying their little snack. While we may never know the true account which led to the discovery of coffee beans, generations of patrons worldwide have turned this aromatic pick-me-up into a multi-billion dollar industry.
The Bean that made History
The demand for that perfect Cup o' Joe inspired 15th century European traders to explore the possibility of establishing coffee farms outside of the Arabian Peninsula (where the plant was deliberately cultivated for its prized beans). The Dutch tried, but failed to grow them in India. However, the same seedlings flourished in the equally humid location of Indonesia. Plantations soon spread to the islands of Sumatra and Celebes.* Then, in the 18th century, a coffee seedling made its way from the Royal Botanical Garden of King Louis XIV to the Caribbean island of Martinique. From this tiny specimen sprouted 18 million coffee trees within the next 50 years.** This parent plant likewise produced shrubs that resulted in the export of coffee beans from South and Central America. According to the National Coffee Association, the popularity of coffee as a beverage became so intense that by the end of the 18th century, it had become the world's most profitable export crop.***
Scalding Truth
Envision a tropical rain forest where bushes lush with olive green leaves and deep red berries line a sun-kissed mountain slope. Unbeknownst to you, these decades old coffee farms may have once been virgin rain forests that teemed with native flora and fauna. In an article on ecosystem degradation written by Amanda L. Varcho and based on TED Case Studies: Coffee and the Environment featuring J.R. Lee's "Coffee Exports from Costa Rica"^ an alarming message claims: It is almost certain that a square inch of rain forest was destroyed for every cup of coffee we have consumed, and continue to enjoy.
Shade-grown, Bird Friendly Coffee
There are two basic methods that farmers may choose to employ in the cultivation of coffee. That pot or cup of liquid energizer you brewed this morning most likely originated from a tree planted in full sun. On the opposite spectrum is the shade-grown variety. The former was developed with one objective in mind: To yield bountiful berries. In fact, a "sun" coffee bush produces nearly thrice the amount of berries compared to its shade-loving sibling.^^ While I comprehend the farmers' logic behind the selection of sun-grown trees, as a coffee drinking environmental conservationist, I was curious to learn more about shade, aka bird friendly coffee. I had the pleasure of meeting Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) volunteers and avid birdwatchers, George and Arlene Jackovich. Apparently, coffee is a natural understory plant. Biologically, it was meant to grow under a forest canopy. The farming method of growing the shrub in full sun was only introduced in the 1970's as a means to increase crop production and profit.^^^ I tried to find shade coffee at a grocery store that sold fair trade certified coffee or ones that were roasted and sold by local Missouri small businesses. To my disappointment, the pouches sold at that particular store did not mention the term "shade-grown". To that Arlene replied, "You'll have better luck finding it online. You can get shade-grown coffee either as whole bean or ground." I was provided a flyer that showcased badges to look for when shopping for a legitimate bag of shade-grown roasted beans:
The symbols featuring birds in flight and a green frog belong to the Smithsonian and Rain Forest Alliance (RFA), respectively. Both have championed the cause of protecting the environment and the best interest of farmers worldwide. For example, depending on your role in the supply chain (i.e. farmer, company, certification board) you can rely on the RFA to provide you with educational tools, for a fee, that can help you maximize crop production through global-standard planning and management systems. The same organization will provide training to ensure soil health, crop disease prevention, waste management, the protection of indigenous wildlife, and agriculture standards for hiring and justly compensating farm workers.
All these are well and good, yet in the end, the decision to purchase shade coffee belongs to the consumer. To my surprise, big-chain grocery stores that carry brands such as Caribou and Bulletproof, have coffee pouches bearing the RFA frog icon! Online, the price of shade coffee can range anywhere between $10.94 for a 12-ounce pouch to up to $73.99 for a 5-pound bag. Here are a few examples of shade coffee brands:
Is bird friendly coffee throwing shade at its sun-loving counterpart?
The answer is NO. You and I have learned that the centuries old tradition and method of growing these plants was under the canopy of towering trees. My purpose is to get conversations started over a good cup of coffee-- or tea, or hot cocoa-- whichever you prefer. As far as I can tell, we have reached the apex of success as an industrialized planet to the detriment of its natural resources. I sense that lot of people worry or wonder on the impact they have as an individual attempting to make better choices for the sake of the Earth. I say: Don't worry. You are not alone. We are millions of individuals worldwide re-evaluating the meaning and purpose of our existence as thinking, feeling creatures. If you can afford to purchase shade-grown coffee in support of the mission of organizations promoting fair trade, sustainability, and environmental conservation then, "Thank You". If you buy this shade variety of coffee simply because it tastes good, then that too, is fine. Alternatively, if your taste buds or wallet still prefer sun-grown coffee, then go for it. There are other ways to take action and show your love and concern for the health of our planet and its people. I will end this piece with a reminder to explore incorporating native plants into your home landscaping. It is one of the easiest ways for you to promote and maintain biodiversity locally-- whether you live in the rain forest or the urban jungle. Go Wild!
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